
- Piecing a statue at the Kabul Museum - Jennifer A. Huber
Afghanistan is welcoming Western travelers into the war-torn nation. Following is a quick travel guide to the country's capital, Kabul.
What to see. Kabul's two signature museums, the Afghan National Gallery and Kabul Museum, are slowly recovering from the Taliban's five-year reign. Despite 400 paintings lost and destroyed during the Taliban, many pieces of art depicting people and animals were saved. Sayed Abdul Fatah, the gallery director, instructed artists to paint watercolor landscapes over them because watercolor paint is easily removable. The international art community has donated paintings to the Afghan National Gallery in order to rebuild the collection.
Sculptures depicting humans are being pieced together at the Kabul Museum. The museum traces Afghanistan's history but 70 percent of its original collection is gone due to looting and Taliban destruction. Across from the museum is Darulaman Palace. Built in the 1920s, King Amanullah and royalty lived in the palace and today, it's a bombed out, bullet-riddled shell of a grander time.
The Oasis Salon is not the traditional tourist attraction. It's owned by American Debbie Rodriguez, who also runs the Beauty School of Kabul. The school provides Afghan women with the trade of hair dressing. Graduates are employees in the salon and services include head massages, hair cuts, massages and pedicures. While Western men are welcomed, Afghan men are prohibited from entering the salon. In 2006, Rodriguez and an American friend opened the Cabul Coffee. It's the closest thing to a Starbucks Kabul travelers will find.
What to eat. There's a nice selection of secure restaurants within Kabul. These include Haji Baba, Marco Polo, Rose Restaurant and Shandiz-Kabol. Lamb, rice, cooked vegetables, yogurt and naan (long, flat bread prepared on a grill) are staples. Trays with an assortment of green raisins, pistachios and dried chickpeas are served to guests visiting homes and offices. Hot tea is also served.
Where to stay. There are numerous guesthouses within Kabul. Afghans4Tomorrow (A4T), a non-profit organization committed to educating Afghan girls and young women, offers simple, yet comfortable accommodations in a Kabul neighborhood. Luxury and pampering are served at the Kabul Hotel Serena in downtown.
Souvenirs. Haggling the price is part of the shopping experience. Most signage is in English and most shopkeepers understand basic English for haggling.
Afghanistan is known for its lapis jewelry in the forms of earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Ornate scarves are beautiful reminders of a trip to Kabul and can be easily packed. Afghan rugs are popular souvenirs and found in the popular tourist area called Chicken Street. Also on Chicken Street is the bookstore for which the book, “Bookseller of Kabul,” by Asne Seierstad is based. Handcrafted items such as bracelets, beaded purses, pillow cases and pull-over tops made by Women to Women, an organization empowering women by providing a trade, are easily found, too.
Sara Afghan is an upscale clothing boutique with fashionable wear designed by Sara Rahmani. The 39 year-old Rahmani opened the boutique in 2004 and has contracted with a New York company to carry her designs. Westerners and Afghans with decent salaries wear her clothing because of the quality and creativity in the designs. A jacket or top from her boutique is a piece of Kabul's high fashion.
Giving back. The adventure of experiencing another culture includes sharing. There are many opportunities to share Western life with the Afghan people. Postcards, pins and hard candies are appreciated. Instant photos from a Polaroid camera are popular. Clothing, blankets and personal hygiene items are needed.
Getting there. Out of Dubai, Kam Air Airlines and Ariana Afghan Airlines offer flights to Kabul. U.S. government personnel are not allowed to travel aboard Ariana due to safety concerns. Kam is bit more reliable with service.
Traveling to Kabul can be dangerous and travelers should exercise caution when visiting. Review security warnings prior to travel and exercise caution while in Afghanistan.
More in Suite101: Woman's Mini-Guide to Kabul: Preparing for a Trip to Afghanistan
